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Amanda Queiroz Campos


Topic of Research

The doctoral research involves the topics of fashion trends companies (bureaux de style) and their role of expertise in the fashion industry. Contemporary society understands the future, mostly, by its programming ability. Specifically in the field of fashion, there are mechanisms of coordinated action that organize information about the qualities of the future market that notify designers in advance about which trends will prevail (Erner, 2005). Despite many valid theories (Barthers, 2009a, 2009b; Caldas, 2004; Baudrillard, 2008; Kroeber, 1919; 1952), scholars still discuss if fashion trends companies and the specialized media either reveal or invent and impose trends (Erner, 2005, 2012; Baldini, 2005; Godart, 2010; Svendsen, 2011).

Scandinavian scholars Aspers and Skov (2006; 2010) apprehended that fashion is organized into three main categories: (1) material production; (2) creative industry and (3) expertise of anticipation. Trend research companies, being in the last category and on the top of the fashion supply chain, communicate researched and edited trends that by themselves reduce the importance of truth. Such institutions here addressed as expert systems (Giddens, 1991; 2012).

On the other hand, despite all controlling efforts, at the present time fashion trends are hardly perceptive and present very little recurrence in the supplementation logic, in which a trend does not substitute another, but coexist (Svendsen, 2010). According to exploratory and bibliographic systematic researches conducted, there is a gap between the fashion trend information – advertised by the bureaux de style – and the fashion product collections – designed by fashion companies.

Therefore, it seems contradictory that the forecasting expertise sustains and increases its popularity. In the last years it has been stated that trend forecasting is the new billion dollar business and companies dedicated to such expertise, such as WGSN, are exponentially increasing their client lists (Rosmann, 2014).

For that reason, the main purpose of this research is to understand of the role of the expert of fashion trend forecasting in the current and upcoming supply chain context in the fashion industry. That by analyzing and interpreting how large and small fashion companies in Europe and in Brazil respond to fashion trends disseminated by fashion forecasting bureuax. Afterwards, based on the findings, I also aim to generate recommendations for the best practice of fashion trends’ communication in order for them to be effectively adopted by the fashion industry.

In order to accomplish this purpose, the methodology planned is Grounded Theory (Glaser & Strauss, 1990), which can be consider a method, methodology or a research approach or strategy used to develop theories grounded in systematically collected and analyzed data (Soneira, 2007). The generation of concepts and framework is an iterative procedure, in which one does not generate the hypothesis a priori, but rather uncovers them during the phenomenon’s study (Glauser & Strauss, 1990; Pandit, 1995). Data collection includes interviews with fashion designers and trends forecasting groups of fashion companies of large and small sizes. The analysis and interpretation will occur in sets of coding – open, axial and selective – as proposed by Grounded Theory.

Fashion trends; Bureaux de style; Branding; Fashion Product Design; Design Management.

Current Activities
Amanda Queiroz Campos holds a scholarship for the bi-national PhD studies from the cooperation between German and Brazilian governments – CAPES/DAAD. The PhD research hosting institutions are Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (Brazil) and Berguische Universität Wuppertal (Germany). In Brazil, Amanda is a researcher of Labor LOGO and research groups SIGMO and FP.Lab – in the topics of brands, signification and trends.

Holds a Bachelor degree at Fashion – with emphasis in Fashion Design - from Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina (2010) and at Graphic Design from Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (2012). Master at Design and Graphic Expression from Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (2013) with dissertation entitled “The myth as an increment of product in the fashion brand management”. Fields of study are: fashion trends, fashion design, branding and graphic design.

A more detailed CV one finds at: